When we returned to the US in May, our plan was to spend a few months with family and friends and then return again for Thanksgiving and Christmas. But we did not want to spend the full 7 months in the US (it’s just way too expensive). So we were thinking about places to go that were budget-friendly and a fairly short distance and ended up with Central and South America. After doing some research, we settled on Peru (mostly due to visiting the bucket list place of Machu Picchu). So here’s our journey of spending one month in Peru (it was actually about a month and a half, but… semantics). You can also read more about our first year of full-time travel, here.
Cusco, Peru
To be totally honest, before arriving in Peru, we actually started in Costa Rica. I did not write a blog article about that location because our time there was not great, and we really did not do much but work and swim. So there just didn’t feel like much to write about. Anyway, we went from Costa Rica to Lima and then Lima to Cusco. Our journey started in the beautiful city of Cusco, which happens to be the largest city closest to Machu Picchu.
Cusco was once the capital of the ancient Inca empire and sits at around 11,000 feet (3300 meters) in elevation. When preparing to visit Cusco, one of the things that made me most nervous was the altitude. I was mostly worried about Sean, and he had difficulty breathing and sleeping when we visited Big Bear, California, years ago, which only sits around 6700 feet (2000 meters). So there was going to be a big difference. We did not have any altitude sickness medication before or after we arrived. Thankfully, we were not affected too badly by the altitude. The first 2 days, we had a difficult time breathing, even when just sitting around, but after that, we had no major issues.
Altitude sickness affects people differently, so my recommendations would be the same you can find almost anywhere:
- 1. Acclimate at a lower elevation if you can (the Sacred Valley is recommended for this)
- 2. Stay hydrated
- 3. Drink coca and muna tea
- 4. Avoid alcohol
- 5. Just take it easy.
If you are experiencing severe symptoms, there are a ton of pharmacies that sell medications for altitude sickness. They also have small bottles of oxygen if needed.
What To Do in Cusco, Peru
A couple of days after we arrived in Cusco, Peru, we met another traveler from Ukraine who asked us what we were going to do in Cusco for one month. This question has come up before in places considered touristic, where most people just pop in, see the sites, and pop out. But we enjoy getting to slow down.
I’ll talk about Machu Picchu a little later, but here are some things to do if you have the time to spend in Cusco, Peru. If you plan on visiting several sites in the area, you might want to consider getting the Boleto TurÃstico Cusco. There are two types of tickets: comprehensive tickets and partial tickets. You can buy these tickets at any of the sites included in the ticket.
The comprehensive ticket is valid for 10 consecutive days. It includes access to 16 sites in and around Cusco. This ticket costs around 130 sols (~$34 USD) for foreigners. The partial ticket has 3 different circuits and is valid for either 1 or 2 days, depending on which circuit you choose. The cost of the partial ticket is 70 sols (~$19 USD).
Visit Saqsaywaman
Saqsaywaman (sounds a little like “sexy woman”) is an Inca citadel that sits right on the outskirts of the main square of Cusco. It was constructed in the 15th century and is considered the largest structure built by the Incas. It is included in the boleto turistico. Sean and I walked from our AirBnB, which was difficult. It was only about a 30-minute walk, but can get very steep. Walking uphill can be very difficult at high altitudes. But walking is the cheapest option. Or you can take a taxi. Not sure what the price of a taxi would be, since we didn’t do that, but probably pretty inexpensive since it’s not very far.
I would recommend getting a guide when you arrive at Saqsaywaman, otherwise, you’re essentially just looking at a bunch of very large stones. There are no signs in the area explaining the site, so having a guide provides you with a lot of great information. You can easily grab a guide once you arrive at the ticket booth. I would avoid getting caught up by any of the people offering a tour outside of the site. Just walk past, until you get to the ticket booth, and there are licensed guides there. The guide cost us a total of around 60 sols (~$16 USD).
While you’re visiting Saqsaywaman, you can easily walk to Cristo Blanco, which is a 26-foot statue of Christ on the hill overlooking the city. We did not walk to the statute but saw it from Saqsaywaman. You’ll get amazing views of the city anywhere up there!
Take a Free Walking Tour
These are our favorite ways to see and learn about a city. There are a ton of companies and individuals offering tours. We just went with one we met at the main square (Plaza de Armas). On this walking tour, we learned about the Incas, their way of life, and a little bit about how they managed to build such amazing structures. We got to see the 12-angled stone – an amazing feat of construction and architecture. We also stopped in the Choco Museo to sample some Peruvian chocolate, walked through the beautiful San Blas district to the Sapantiana aqueduct, and ended up in a restaurant to sample traditional pisco sours. There was much more to see and learn about, but those were just some highlights.
Do a Scared Valley Tour
One of the best things you can do in Cusco is take a tour of the Sacred Valley. This area is located in a valley surrounded by the gorgeous Andean mountains. Many of the sites you’ll see are Incan agricultural sites. We booked a full-day tour through Get Your Guide for $84 USD per person. This tour included lunch, transportation, and a guide. It took us to Pisac, a llama and alpaca rescue, Moray, Maras salt mines, and Ollantaytambo. While the tour was expensive, we felt it was worth it. It was a great tour!
Take a Day Trip to Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca)
Another very popular attraction is Rainbow Mountain, originally known as Vinicunca. Again we booked our tour with Get Your Guide which included pick up from the accommodation, breakfast, lunch, and a walking stick. Sean and I rented the optional hiking poles as we didn’t realize they provide each person a walking stick (oh well…). This hike is extremely difficult because it has the highest elevation at 17,000 feet (5,200 meters). But it is a striking geographical landmark with stripes of color from 14 different minerals. The hike is basically just a photo op, but it’s incredible to see. With the tour we did, you also have the option to hike the Red Valley. We opted out of that because we were both being affected by the altitude with shortness of breath, headaches, lightheadedness, and nausea. Even though we took medication and were using coca candy, it was still difficult.
Explore the Plaza de Armas and Museums
The Plaza de Armas is probably the most popular area in Cusco city. It’s surrounded by Spanish cathedrals and built on one of the Inca’s most important gathering spots. The main feature is the beautiful fountain with the statue of Inca Pachacuti. You can find all sorts of amazing restaurants and souvenir shops around the Plaza de Armas. But you’ll also be constantly bombarded with people trying to sell you stuff or lure you into their establishment. It’s easy enough to just say, “No, Gracias,” and keep walking.
Lima
After spending a month in Cusco, Peru we flew to Lima before we planned on returning back to the US. We spent 2 weeks in Lima, staying in the Barranco neighborhood. Lima reminded us of southern California with its mild weather and beautiful coastline.
Lima is a very vibrant city, but we did not do too much while there. Mostly because we were focused on working, we both got sick and were tired from our adventures in Cusco. So while we had originally planned on doing a trip to the desert oasis of Huacachina, we decided against it. Instead, our two weeks in Lima were spent mostly exploring the areas of Barranco and Miraflores. We also spent a day and went into the Centro Historico where we did a free walking tour.
The Inca Trail is a great experience that you have to do at least once in your life. With a route of 42 km from km 82 to the Citadel of Machu Picchu.
It combines beautiful mountain landscapes of incredible panoramic views, lush forests, a subtropical jungle of splendid natural surroundings, with the magnificent work of the Incas such as the exceptional stone pavement on the road, beautiful Inca cities, sumptuous temples, agricultural terraces, canals.